Category Archives: Sewing

Sewing

Diary of Desire Part 8

Posted on by kathousekelli70

After many hours of trimming, beading (1,216 to be precise) and hand stitching embroidery I finally finished 'the' gown, culminating in the most exquisite piece I have yet produced.

For one very happy client, Texas Flower is in love with her gown to which I am extremely pleased.

The McDowell Drafting Machine and its book of instructions were indeed true. It states that, if correct measure is taken then a gown should be produced and ready to ship to your client without inconveniencing the wearer with numerous fittings.

Despite my misgivings, I now believe every written word in that book! Having made the gown in Australia and finishing it here, Flower had not once tried the gown on until we met in Moriarty last Tuesday. It fit perfectly!

I had a minor conniption when I realised I had not bought any boning with me to add stays to the bodice but am happy to say it did not require it.

This makes it even more like the original really where it was noted (in an article by Peaches O'Day and Miss Tabitha, SASS Chronicle 2012) unusually, did not have any.

Finally, on Friday evening all hand stitching was done and I could hand the gown over to one very excited and happy lady.

The 'Diary of Desire' was worn to the banquet Saturday night and to all our delight Texas Flower was EOT 2016, 1st Place, Best Dressed Lady.

Under the evening lights of the Belle Union Saloon those little Czech glass beadlettes shone bright like stars and the smile on Texas Flower's face!

 

True satisfaction from a yesteryear seamstress.

Kat xo

 

She’s ‘Armless

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Well she won't be for long I guess we are at Diary of Desire Part 6?

I'm cutting it fine but something take careful thinking and consideration. Some might call it procrastination ……in the quest of getting it right.

This morning I've completed all the hand cutting out of the embroidery and now a day of hand stitching and beading!

Just look at her! She's beautiful. The gold thread changed colour when I washed the soluble backing from it (note to self – ask Mum why) but it is delicate and going to look sensational once beaded.

 

20 hours just in embroidery and trimming to this point.

Soon she will be ready to hand over for her first reception.

Happy cowgirl seamstress

Kat xo

P.S. I haven't forgotten the sleeves, just want to do the triple/quadruple check again.

 

Diary of Desire Pt 5 – Putting It All Together

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Yes, it appears the 'inner 15 year old child' managed to work it out as per the books instructions. Although one instruction wasn't adhered to and had to correct the error of my ways, thankfully still at the lining stage.

Everything seems to be sitting just perfectly except for one slight alteration needed at the back neck and shoulders. Got to be happy with that!

 

Here in lies the mishap! See how the front seems high?

 

Well, refer back to said instructions and previous shown photo of drafting and as I was told to – “add 7″ to the front skirt following dart allowances etc”. As you can see I felt in my, somewhat older than 15 years, that this seemed a little ridiculous (despite having drawn it up as instructed) when the rest of the bodice was only 5″ from waist to edge and so cut it off 2″shorter. The result? A bodice that's too high in the front and doesn't look right.

 

Right, stitch that bit back on and thankfully almost nothing of the join is to be seen once sides are trimmed to suit and once facings are in place all is concealed. Shhhhh!

Then it was onto the sleeves. Now in one mind I was tempted to use a Truly Victorian sleeve pattern but I had decided this gown was to be done using the drafting machine and this would surely be cheating. The book specifically details how to draft sleeves from measurements using the square rule.

So yes! I did draft the sleeve using the detailed square. Much to my surprise and sheer delight it worked! All I really needed to see was that it looked like I knew it should be!! Bit hard to see in the pink pen.

 

Next step was to pull apart the lining and cut each piece from the fashion fabric and reconstruct. With this now comes the customising – making it look like the photograph of the original gown.

 

You will note now the front is a sensible length? Lol! Sides to be trimmed.

Next step. Let's have a look back at the original bodice. Oh yes, tabs across front gold ruched section. Hooks and eyes all down one side for the bodice to be closed, so a small gold panel is put in place.

 

So far so good me thinks!

 

Take one gold ruched panel 12″ down to 41/4″ stitched in 4 places. Pin to inside right. Excited much!

Collar appeared to be slightly curved and lined in gold so that's what we now have.

 

Facings have been stitched in ready for hand finishing and that my friends is where it has been left.

Sleeves to be completed back in Oklahoma and embroidered lace to be created.

 

Cheers

Kat xo

P.S. Internet back on and back in Oklahoma. 🙂

 

Just Breathe….

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Ahhhhhhh, jobs are done, diary and book closed for the weekend and will open up on the other side of the world as we continue our adventures.

Looking forward to more workspace and my sample board for friendly reminders of colour choices and work ahead.

 

Looking forward to more challenges, fabric hunting, satisfying clients and enjoying the variety that is.

Kat xo

 

McDowell Garment Drafting Machine

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Or Diary of Desire Part 4 – Learning never ends and I am finally getting to use the McDowell Drafting Machine that I won at the Victorian Tea two Conventions ago!

 

Squeals of delight or sheer terror, can't work out which is winning but think the squeals are taking over!

 

Looks about right. So far so good – measure, set, check measure, check set. Yep so far so good. Yes, the front bodice section is short, up to you to work out the 'skirt' part of it. Crikeys, thought it looked like something was missing. For machines numbered over 7,000 (and mine is 13,742) the skirt rule is 5″ below the waist line.

 

Check this out too. The patent markings, show various versions I assume, from 1879 – 1886.

 

Note the book says and I quote “…….It also simplifies the work that a fifteen-year-old child can easily learn to fit garments scientifically.” Haa Haa Haa better get back to it then.

Keep measuring and smiling 🙂

Kat xo

 

Next Batch

Posted on by kathousekelli70

As time draws near to packing up borrowed machines, the next batch has departed for new homes.

There's been tops, more skirts of varying styles and colours, more corsets, an 1890's Eton Jacket with a twist and a couple of men's vests thrown in for good measure. Well the latter takes care of the April challenge for Historical Sew Monthly – Gender Bender and I've finished them before the end of the month! Yippee!

I even managed to throw in a couple for myself while the black was on the machine.

 

Corsets to go!

 

One for Sweet Sherry.

 

Matching vest and corset for Kat Balloo and Yukon Mort.

 

Prescott vest in wool for Frank James.

 

A complete outfit for Ta Killa Sunrise in purple, cream and teal.

 

Saloon style skirts for Rea Coyle and her Eton jacket (altered sleeves and collar) trimmed with metallic silver thread decorative stitch.

 

Next!

Kat xo

 

Diary of Desire Pt 2

Posted on by kathousekelli70

It certainly has been a long time between journal entries for this one, however, it is moving forward.

The sourcing of fabric was eventually done and had to fall back on gorgeous faux silk taffeta from Bangkok Thai Silk. I have found the silks and other fabrics in the past to be of excellent quality and good pricing.

With samples having been sent off to Texas Flower the choice was made to go with a blue teal and creamy gold. The royal blue was a little too dark and I just couldn't find that elusive powdery blue that I really wanted.

 

Cool! Fabric ordered and arrived.

 

Now the February challenge for Historical Sew Monthly was pleating and the furthest I got with this during the upheaval of false surgery starts and eventual surgery for Jack was writing 3 pages of notes, working out depth, widths of pleats, where to join, how much fabric etc. so technically I somewhat completed that task.

Skip forward almost a month – clearing other 'simpler' work – and we have arrived at actual commencement of construction.

Step 1. Check all measurements and re-read pink ramblings in book. (Pink pen? Really Jo?)

 

Step 2. Clean table and commence cutting of fabric. Cutting main body of skirt and pieces for gathering and pleating.

 

Step 3. Just because it used to be done back in the 1800's and because now I would know it wasn't more authentic if I didn't do it properly, hand stitching hem facing to bottom of skirt front and sides.

 

Step 4. Toss up whether to do gather sections and pleats separate and then join………hmmmmm, nup, think I will join them all first. Pin ready for sewing.

Step 5. Brings us to today, Tuesday 29th, stitch all sections together, stitch hem facings to back gather section and pleat section and all 19 front panels.

 

Step 6. Hand stitch hem facings down. Back sections done (2.5metres) now to do the front – approx 6metres!! Yes I did say hand stitch.

Now I've mentioned a back gather section and pleating. A quick glance at the photo and you'd be forgiven for saying, 'what the hell are you talking about?' But on closer inspection I realised that there is indeed an under section, just in blue, of a gathering layer and a pleated layer. Of course I can't leave it out, it's there so it has to be done.

 

Anyway this is where I'm at with the lovely Texas Flower's dinner or reception gown. Still trying to find more information or museum critique to know exactly what it would have been worn as.

Time so far – 13 hours

Needle and thread are calling me!

Kat xo

P.S. If you click on 'journal entries' above it will take you to Pt1 in case you missed it. 😉

 

B-Western

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Miss 19 asked me one day, “Mum what is B-Western?” Well I could explain to her what it meant for Single Action shooters by way of category, dress, firearms etc but what did it really mean?

Now I also knew it related to the silver screen era, John Wayne, Tom Mix, Roy Rogers, Dale Evans and the like. So a little research got me looking further at the term.

In short, (because we don't need the full explanation on here) film production in the late 1920's and into the 1930's and 40's saw the double billing or short inexpensive films added to fill a program. Mostly due to rental of space to show a film and therefore to make it worthwhile not only for theatre goers but for the management and staff.

Western movies were said to be the most predominant in the 30's and accounted for 25-30% of production. Therefore the term, B-Western!

However, costume wise, it is all about the smiley pockets, piping, fringing, different coloured cuffs and yokes, bright coloured fabrics, embroidery and a little bit of bling thrown in for good measure.

There are many fine examples of such with the most revered being those created by Nudie Cohn. In particular to the country music artists over many years.

I found these little gems on some Grand Old Opry dvd's borrowed from 'Emerald'. Priceless! I'm sure I recognised one outfit on a DVD that we saw at the Ryman Auditorium when we were there in 2014.

This one of Ernest Ashworth wearing his 'Talkback Trembling Lips' outfit that matched his song! What a classic! Blinged up bars of music, the writing and of course the lips across it.

 

I think it was this one of Porter Wagoner's we may have seen at the Ryman or at the Country Music Hall of Fame.

 

In the realm of costuming I have completed a few B-Western outfits now and think there will be more to come.

Here is 'Lil McGill' from Texas, in her Annie Oakley inspired outfit (as worn by Gail Davis in the tv series of Annie Oakley in the 1950's). We saw the original on display at the Oklahoma National Cowboy Museum and Hall of Fame and it just had to become an outfit for Lil! She won best dressed B-Western Lady at the 2015 US Nationals – Winter Range, 2015 World Championships – End Of Trail and then the trifecta, 2015 South West Regionals – Red Dirt Rampage.

(2nd Place, Sonora Blaze, 3rd Place, Paniola Annie)

 

Our Aussies can be partial to a bit of B-Western flair as well and when 'Katie Younger' and 'Robb and Co' hit the USA in 2015 they wanted an Australian themed get up. So National emblem and flower with kangaroo's, Southern Cross and the Australian flag were the order. They won 2nd Place Best Dressed Couple at the 2015 World Championships – End of Trail. Katie has the first B-Western outfit I ever made in a red and black combo.

 

'Sonora Blaze' from Colorado also required a show stopper and we got to doing this Dale Evans inspired number but in the turquoise instead of the original coral colour. Sonora won 2nd Place Best Dressed at the 2016 US Nationals – Winter Range.

 

'Flat Top Okie' from Oklahoma, required a shirt to match the boots he'd bought and after searching for the right colour fabric came up with the perfect match! Add in some custom styled design and a little bit of bling and there you have it.

 

And so we come to the latest creation in this genre. Another beautiful outfit for 'Lil McGill' with bits of a Patsy Cline outfit and inspiration from Annie Get Your Gun costumes for Betty Hutton, Lil will be the ultimate ray of sunshine getting around the range in this number! There are a couple of things left to do, like pearl snaps, embroidered triangles for pockets and careful trimming of embroidery threads but I can't wait to see this one decked out with Lil's final touches!

 

Bling it if you can!

Kat xo

P.S. Weirdly, I am looking forward to more smiley pocket experimentation, I think I nailed it on Lil's skirt. Have to do pockets on shirt now!

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/B_movie

http://www.nudiesrodeotailor.com

 

‘The Green Behind The Gold’

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Tuesday we took a short trip up to Mt Tamborine to take a casual stroll down 'Gallery Walk'. We wandered in and out of small boutique shops and stopped in at the Gallery Cafe for Devonshire tea.

 

After our coffee, scones, jam and cream we kept on up the street to the 'Fig Tree Roundabout'. As the plaque states, the fig tree marks the site of the original home of one William Henry Crawford. He planted the tree across the road from his homestead to provide shade for the many walkers who passed by.

 

Across the road we ventured into a little shop called 'Bygone Days'. I could hardly contain myself as I looked through the various laces they had. Gorgeous, beautiful stunning laces at decent widths that would lend themselves to the most gorgeous 1800's gowns. They also had the most beautifully crafted reproduction velvet flowers for hats. Prices were excellent. I will be back!

As we meandered back down the road we stopped in at Le Chile Cafe for lunch and had beautiful bruschetta. I wanted Empanadas but they had run out.

 

Onwards to the 'Castle Glen' distillery, 'Fortitude Valley' brewing company for some liquor and beer tasting. The Lazy Knight was a winner – whiskey, white chocolate and ginger. We had a tasting paddle of 5 brews at the brew house.

 

Back in the car and we headed for the Mt Tamborine Rainforest Skywalk. A 40 minute walk through tracks of trees, figs, vines, and overhead walkways through rainforest canopy. There were various trees from palms, figs to the straightest, whitest, huge and beautiful gums I have seen in a long time. There were no orchids flowering at the moment either.

 

The cantilever platform was fantastic and we could see down to the floor and trickling little creek, listening to the sounds of cicadas and other forest noises……probably frogs.

 

That's it, back into the air conditioned car and headed back for an afternoon swim.

Kat xo

http://www.tamborinemtncc.org.au

https://www.facebook.com/Castle-Glen-wines-and-Cocktails-Montville-350574531728427/

http://fortitudebrewing.com.au