Back to Sheridan and we hit the Cowoby Cafe for lunch.

When travelling I like to sample unusual local brews. Occidental Porter yesterday in Buffalo and today – Moose Drool. Not bad! A light brown ale. Jack preferring to stick with Blue Moon or something else.

Then we hit the streets took in a couple of statues, murals, old buildings and a spot of shopping – well, window shopping anyway. Visited Don King's Saddlery Museum too. What a collection!

Tonight we headed down to the historic Sheridan Inn, home of Buffalo Bill. Here, William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, a then part owner, often auditioned new talent for his Wild West Show from the front porch.

The 22 rooms are decorated in the times and history of Buffalo Bill and 21 other people from his life. There are historical displays and photos throughout the lobbies. The first floor lobby still has original beams, plaster ceiling, floor coverings, fireplace etc.

The Open Range Restaurant offered up a variety of steaks, fish and other seafood.

I opted for the 'Plank Salmon' (came served on a plank of timber that it was cooked on) with Smoked Asparagus and Sautéed Mushrooms. Jack decided on Cajun Spiced Ribeye Steak, Loaded Baked Potato and Sautéed Mushrooms.

It was a WOW! Totally superb meal!

Cheers!!

Kat xo

https://sheridaninn.com

http://www.cowboycafewyo.com/home.aspx

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In about 20mins flat, through rolling Wyoming hills one side and the Bighorn Mountains to the left we reached the border for Montana.

Not too long after and we are in Garryowen at Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.

Custer National Cemetery is a site to behold as marble markers honour known and unknown soldiers from many wars, medal of honour and veterans including 20th Century Wars, women and children from the frontier, Indians and scouts alike.

We heard a call for a talk by one of the Park Ranger's for 10am up at the Last Stand Monument so we proceeded up the hill to take in an informative yet abbreviated talk by Michael Donahue.

He is from Texas and works here every Summer and has written books on Custer.

I managed to capture some of the information but for the most part was completely mesmerised by his enthusiasm and fascinating recall on one of American history's major battles.

So you will only get a very brief account from me.

The Battle of The Little Bighorn occurred on June 25, 1876. Custer and over 200 men met their death in a bloody battle against Indian warriors.

Down in the valley, along the Little Bighorn River (noted with the red circle in the pic) was where the Indian encampment of 6-8000 were. Of these around 2000 were Indian warriors.

Being in and around the river and low into the valley made it difficult to see the tipi's and for Custer, Reno and Benteen to know just how many were there.

Sitting Bull's camp started down towards the back lot of trees. Whilst this was a Crow reservation, Sitting Bull was pushing them off their own reservation. He was attempting to persue the Indians nomadic ways and refused to be restricted to a reservation. Now you have to remember around these times too, America was trying to get all tribes into Indian Territory aka Oklahoma.

The U.S. 7th Cavalry Regiment also had a number of Irish and Germans in it. When they came to the frontier if they didn't have a job then they could always get $13/month enlisted in the U.S, Army.

It was the winter and spring of 1876 when open warfare broke out between the Lakota/Cheyenne and the U.S. Army. By the time this battle started it would be a hot 100F day.

As we stand at the Last Stand Monument the small cemetery in front has the scattered markers of those slain and down along a 5 mile path you can see other markers. The white marble markers are for army and civilians and red granite markers are the Indians who lost their lives.

Custer having had many victories before and escaped harm, despite having 11 horses shot from beneath him, was so confident in a victorious outcome here that he had invited his whole family! All but one brother came along and we saw markers for at least 2 of his family that died here.

Custer wearing his floppy hat, shoulder length hair, blue velveteen uniform and red tie could be seen on any battlefield. He led his men from the front, never the rear.

Major Reno's battalion attempts to take the encampment not realising just how many were down in there. From Custer's vantage point he realised they were outnumbered and sent an Italian rider with a note to Benteen saying 'come now, bring the packs!' Meaning the pack mules wih ammunition as each man was only allocated 124 rounds.

When Benteen received the note he put it in his pocket and ignored it. Apparently no love lost between these two. Reno was beside himself and said they needed to go help.

Later when Weir, Reno and Benteen come across Custer and his men, the sight would haunt them forever.

The battle with Custer and his 200 men was over in just under 2 hours.

Indians believed that in order to not fight someone in the next life they needed to take their spirit by scalping them, their eyes out so they cannot see, take their hands off so they can not fire their weapons and slash their thigh muscle so they cannot get on a horse in the next life.

A classic case of 1800's Post Traumatic Stress Disorder, both Weir and Reno drank themselves to death. Weir died the December after the battle, Reno vowed to sit with Custer's wife and tell her the truth and died later. Benteen remained bitter and still hated Custer til the very day he died.

It was a very hurried burial for Custer and his men in the heat of an 1876 Summer. They were later exhumed and placed in a mass grave around the memorial. Some were sent to other cemeteries, Custer's body now lies interred at West Point, the horses are recognised and so too the Indians have a special memorial.

The Indian Memorial “Peace Through Unity” is quite spectacular, the main feature of its horses, warriors preparing for battle and riding out, is a unique bronze sculpture.

The circular walls of rock is said to be symbolic of the journey of life. They have openings, one of which has a view to the Last Stand monument, allowing the spirits of the 7th Cavalry into the memorial.

The beautiful black granite features represent the 5 tribes who fought and has all the names of those lives lost cared in stone. A picture of the remaining 9 warriors is also displayed with all the names of warriors lost.

There is also a number of different artefacts, maps and other great things in the Visitor Centre,

Kat xo

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Little_Bighorn_Battlefield_National_Monument

http://www.nps.gov/libi/indian-memorial-at-the-little-bighorn.htm

http://www.npr.org/2013/07/22/203595888/little-bighorn-tour-guide-brings-battle-to-life

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A stop at the Buffalo Visitor Centre and we were reminded of the Historic Occidental Hotel in downtown Buffalo.

Well being the cowboys we are, we need a watering hole about now so we did a quick trip down the historic downtown and found the Occidental Hotel. Ordered up an Occidental Porter, their own brewed brown ale, a lighter but similar Guinness tasting beer.

This hotel was built in 1880 and restored in 2008 to its 1908 finish. Complete with pressed copper ceilings, mahogany and stained glass bar, with original bullet holes.

One of the dining rooms leading through to the downstairs Hotel rooms has another magnificent full wall length mirrored sideboard.

The Hotel is decked out in period turn of the century furniture and has a number of photos lining its hallways of past famous and if not, infamous visitors. These include Buffalo Bill Cody, Teddy Roosevelt, Tom Horn, Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid and Calamity Jane to name a few. Now it's had Jackaroo and Kathouse Kelli! Haa haa haa! 🙂 🙂

It is said the most famous western Western novel ever written “The Virginian” by Owen Wister was based on events of Cowboys, gunslingers and the first 'walk down' (shootout) that visited or happened in front of the Occidental Hotel.

The Occidental Hotel has received awards from True West Magazine and the National Geographic Traveler Magazine.

This is also home to the Netflix series of 'Longmire', great show! So a pic of the building was required.

Kat xo

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Left Rapid City this morning and headed back down into Custer as I still have yet to find that elusive blue dress for Tacky Jackie.

Here are just some of the painted buffalo on the street corners in Custer.

Once the 1881 Courthouse Museum was open, we entered the doors and there to my left in a room was the blue dress! We toured through the rooms of artefacts, taxidermy and photos and items of General Custer.

Into the Victorian parlour room and then the laundry come kitchen room, getting some pics of the late 1800's dress. I've yet to determine what correct era it will be.

Downstairs is the original jail cell and other firearm displays. Upstairs takes you through a ranch room, firefighting equipment over the years, veterans uniform room, the judge's chamber's and original courtroom that was used from 1881 up until 1974.

The outside buildings consist of an original log building – 1879 Custer's first continually operated newspaper, a brick building that was originally the outhouse, the site of Custer's only legal hanging and the carriage house.

Across the road is the oldest existing structure in the Black Hills. An 1875 physicians house, Dr D.W. Flick. It served as a home, military headquarters, and pioneer museum.

From here we headed west on Hwy16, made a quick stop at the Museum of Woodcarving. A Dr Harley Niblack was a practicing chiropractor, had invented diathermy and weight loss machines. He retired for his love of woodcarving and animation at age 42.

He died in 1966 but had spent many hours carving miniature and life sized figures, miniature steam engines, paintings, furniture etc. He had three of his animated scenes displayed in the Smithsonian Institute. In 1954-55 he designed and built the animation at Disneyland. (Excerpt from the museum brochure)

The guy obviously had a fascination for western history too as there were cowboy caricatures, old time dentistry, mining and ranching impressions depicted in his sculptures.

All I can say is, incredible detail and a very creative mind.

Onward we go, back through to Wyoming – Newcastle, Upton, Moorecroft, Wyodak, Gillette (the open cut coal mine), onto Buffalo and with views of the Bighorn Mountains heading into Sheridan.

Only about 20miles from the border into Montana. The next few days will be spent commuting into Yellowstone National Park and Cody.

Cheers and beers!

Kat xo

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Next we travelled the Iron Mountain Road, designed by Peter Norbek in 1870 who later became a senator and Governor of the state. He said the road to Mt Rushmore should be slow and scenic. He was the bright spark that decided these pigtail bridges and tunnels on the already narrowing and winding road. Note: the bikers were not happy as we manoeuvred around one of the bends! It’s a tour bus people! I’m sorry.

Check out these tiny roads, it is just wide enough for the bus.

From up on the road we get a good view to the Badlands. Then we come to the last tunnel, Scovel Johnson Tunnel where you can see back through to Mt Rushmore.

The Black Hills National Park has elk, white tail and mule deer, bighorn sheep, turkeys and mountain lions. There are no grizzly or black bear though, they were all eliminated during the 1800’s, more than likely miners took them for their meat and fur. Custer had his picture taken with a big bear he had shot here.

Now we are into Custer State Park all 71,000 acres of it and keeping our eye out for buffalo! There are 1300-1500 head of buffalo throughout the park. Towards the end of September they round them all up and push them down to the south end of the park. They then have the ‘running of the buffalo’ where they push them into the corrals and pregnancy test them, brand them and sort out the ones they want to keep and will auction some off during November.

The game lodge was built in 1920, 70 days after it was finished it burnt to the ground. The lodge was rebuilt on the original foundations. President Calvin Coolidge used to stay here for his summer White House. Dwight Eisenhower also stayed at the lodge in 1953. This is where our lunch stop is. Buffalo Burger anyone? The buffet was superb.

We made a rather exciting roadside stop along the mountain to view the needle spires known as The Cathedral.

The last tunnel, aptly named ‘The Needles Eye’! Can you see why!? 8ft 4″ wide. We crept through the mirrors barely missing the rock face. Dan has a wicked sense of humour, not only does he have a student driver sign in the window but he stopped in the middle of the tunnel and decided to put the flashers on! Hilarious!

The crowd cheered and clapped when we got out the other side. Then we could briefly see the needles eye rock.

A quick stop at Sylvan Lake, how beautiful! Rocks into the water, popular for fishing and boating. This area was used for the movie National Treasure.

Next it was down through Custer and on to Crazy Horse.

Custer was founded in 1875 and the first in the Black Hills, so named after General Custer. Custer kept very accurate records of his expedition and brought the Black Hills out of isolation. He was only there for 3 weeks of that summer. Miners soon came thick and fast after Custer’s men reported finding gold.

Gen. Custer is mostly known for the Battle of Little Bighorn. Custer and two hundred of his men lost their lives in this great battle which actually took place North of the Black Hills and into Montana. One horse named Commanche survived from a bullet wound, moved to Kansas for rehab and when he passed away was stuffed and mounted, residing in the Univerity of Kansas.

The Crazy Horse monument was to be dedicated to the ‘red man’. Chief Standing Bear wrote and asked Korczak Ziolkowski to create the monument Crazy Horse was started in 1948.

When finished, the comparison of size? The four presidents heads of the Mt Rushmore Memorial would fit into Crazy Horses head with room to spare.

The face of crazy horse was unveiled in 1988.

For those interested in blasting the world standard (which may have changed, not sure the last review of their information video was) for vibration in a blast is/was 8″ per foot. Their blasting for this monument is 3″ per foot. Very precise! You can’t put back what you take off. Would be a bit late then.

Back through Hill City, the heart of the black hills and is the second oldest town in the hills.

Right about now we are all trying to stay awake and soon we will arrive back at Ft. Hays. A full 9hr day and have the Chuckwagon dinner show tonight.

Dinner was superb, fast and then the Wranglers came on to play. Music and comedy – different from a previous chuckwagon dinner – western, country, and a little bit of Elvis. Very, very good and the fiddle player who was a trained classical violinist was amazing! Miss Lizzie Knowles! One of the guys in the band was her music teacher back in school and they played a superb rendition of Devil Went Down To Georgia!

A good finish to a great day!

Night! Kat xo

July 28th, 2015

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Today is spent travelling up to Deadwood. It is amazing to see how it sits in the gully with surrounding hills and steep streets and really makes you wonder how they ever got in and out of here by horse.

We marvelled at the beautiful buildings, took in some of the history but there is lots of gambling in the hotels now and when you walk in, thats what hits you. It's hard to find the restaurants! (That's my opinion anyway)

For an area steeped in history, perhaps I was a little disappointed but still thoroughly enjoyed it.

We had decided to wear jeans, shirt, cowboy hat etc for the day when our original plan was to wear full 1880's gear. This week is the lead up to the Sturgis Rally and we felt a little out of place. 😦

There are bikes everywhere and what a beautiful spot for them to ride through in and around the Black Hills!

Highlights were the original site of the Saloon at No.10 where Wild Bill Hicock was shot in the back of the head by Jack McCall. We went into Seth Bullock Hotel as well.

Lunch was had at Mavericks, partaking in their signature cocktail the Hairy Buffalo, I'm sure that is going to sneak up on me later, ie; sleep in the car.

Next we headed to the Adams Museum and then a South Dakota thunderstorm hit! Absolutely bucketed down with rain. As it eased we went back up to the Main Street and found Midnight Star. The hotel owned by Kevin Costner that has collections of movie posters, photographs and costumes worn in many of his movies.

Back to Rapid City to find the laundromat, another storm hits while there, this time with hail and plenty of it. Probably lasted a good half hour.

End of a weary legs day.

Kat xo

July 27th, 2015

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Sunday and back on the road. Today we have left behind our Wyoming friends and heading North through to Fort Laramie before arriving in Rapid City for the night.

There is not a breath of wind and the landscape looks like someone has taken a knife and knocked the tops off the mountains.

Mmm Museum closed, no sign of a Fort so onward we go heading for South Dakota.

Went through the very small town of Lusk and crossing the border into South Dakota. Another change of scenery as we came to the beautiful Black Hills.

Arrived into Custer and in search of the museum I want to visit for costume inspiration for Tacky Jackie. Should have gone to the right……

We ended up at a little old frontier town museum at Four Mile, a ghost town by name of Moss City. The town was to have its name changed and after a period of time they found the title had never been changed. Four Mile was kept and Moss City became a ghost town as such.

We took a little tour of this museum however it does need some care and refurbishment.

An interesting fact from the stockade – Apparently buffalo soldiers got their name because their curly hair reminded the Indians of the curly hair on the shoulders of the buffalo, hence the name – Buffalo Soldiers.

Anyway, coming back in through Custer saw the Courthouse Museum which definitely looks more like where this gown would be found but we needed to get to the hotel. I WILL get back to that Museum though before we get out of Rapid City.

Kat xo

July 26, 2015

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