Tag Archives: Historical Sewing

Diary of Desire Pt 5 – Putting It All Together

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Yes, it appears the 'inner 15 year old child' managed to work it out as per the books instructions. Although one instruction wasn't adhered to and had to correct the error of my ways, thankfully still at the lining stage.

Everything seems to be sitting just perfectly except for one slight alteration needed at the back neck and shoulders. Got to be happy with that!

 

Here in lies the mishap! See how the front seems high?

 

Well, refer back to said instructions and previous shown photo of drafting and as I was told to – “add 7″ to the front skirt following dart allowances etc”. As you can see I felt in my, somewhat older than 15 years, that this seemed a little ridiculous (despite having drawn it up as instructed) when the rest of the bodice was only 5″ from waist to edge and so cut it off 2″shorter. The result? A bodice that's too high in the front and doesn't look right.

 

Right, stitch that bit back on and thankfully almost nothing of the join is to be seen once sides are trimmed to suit and once facings are in place all is concealed. Shhhhh!

Then it was onto the sleeves. Now in one mind I was tempted to use a Truly Victorian sleeve pattern but I had decided this gown was to be done using the drafting machine and this would surely be cheating. The book specifically details how to draft sleeves from measurements using the square rule.

So yes! I did draft the sleeve using the detailed square. Much to my surprise and sheer delight it worked! All I really needed to see was that it looked like I knew it should be!! Bit hard to see in the pink pen.

 

Next step was to pull apart the lining and cut each piece from the fashion fabric and reconstruct. With this now comes the customising – making it look like the photograph of the original gown.

 

You will note now the front is a sensible length? Lol! Sides to be trimmed.

Next step. Let's have a look back at the original bodice. Oh yes, tabs across front gold ruched section. Hooks and eyes all down one side for the bodice to be closed, so a small gold panel is put in place.

 

So far so good me thinks!

 

Take one gold ruched panel 12″ down to 41/4″ stitched in 4 places. Pin to inside right. Excited much!

Collar appeared to be slightly curved and lined in gold so that's what we now have.

 

Facings have been stitched in ready for hand finishing and that my friends is where it has been left.

Sleeves to be completed back in Oklahoma and embroidered lace to be created.

 

Cheers

Kat xo

P.S. Internet back on and back in Oklahoma. 🙂

 

McDowell Garment Drafting Machine

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Or Diary of Desire Part 4 – Learning never ends and I am finally getting to use the McDowell Drafting Machine that I won at the Victorian Tea two Conventions ago!

 

Squeals of delight or sheer terror, can't work out which is winning but think the squeals are taking over!

 

Looks about right. So far so good – measure, set, check measure, check set. Yep so far so good. Yes, the front bodice section is short, up to you to work out the 'skirt' part of it. Crikeys, thought it looked like something was missing. For machines numbered over 7,000 (and mine is 13,742) the skirt rule is 5″ below the waist line.

 

Check this out too. The patent markings, show various versions I assume, from 1879 – 1886.

 

Note the book says and I quote “…….It also simplifies the work that a fifteen-year-old child can easily learn to fit garments scientifically.” Haa Haa Haa better get back to it then.

Keep measuring and smiling 🙂

Kat xo

 

Next Batch

Posted on by kathousekelli70

As time draws near to packing up borrowed machines, the next batch has departed for new homes.

There's been tops, more skirts of varying styles and colours, more corsets, an 1890's Eton Jacket with a twist and a couple of men's vests thrown in for good measure. Well the latter takes care of the April challenge for Historical Sew Monthly – Gender Bender and I've finished them before the end of the month! Yippee!

I even managed to throw in a couple for myself while the black was on the machine.

 

Corsets to go!

 

One for Sweet Sherry.

 

Matching vest and corset for Kat Balloo and Yukon Mort.

 

Prescott vest in wool for Frank James.

 

A complete outfit for Ta Killa Sunrise in purple, cream and teal.

 

Saloon style skirts for Rea Coyle and her Eton jacket (altered sleeves and collar) trimmed with metallic silver thread decorative stitch.

 

Next!

Kat xo

 

Diary of Desire Pt 3

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Sometimes I astound myself and am feeling very pleased about the completion of the skirt for Texas Flowers gown.

Suffice to say it is looking very much like the original don't you think? Texas Flower will be very happy indeed.

 

So, only the lace to be done now.

The under gathering and pleating was done – I wasn't happy with the height of the pleating, so that got unpicked, moved and restitched. The back overskirt was hemmed, unpicked, rehemmed, pleated, undone and repeated at the sides. The ruching I could have done a bit more but left them and the origami pleats for a first time attempt turned out well.

 

The original gown and owner of said gown, Lonna Miller shared a picture of the stunning lace on Facebook for me. Lonna has used the original gold satin and lace from the dress, reworked in red.


In Texas Flower's and my look at this breathtaking gown at the 2014 Convention I neglected to see the beautiful detail in the lace which is actually beaded. Flower's lace will be full embroidery with just a hint of beading in the small flowers.

For now it's back to simpler tasks as I wait for my McDowell Drafting machine to come back from the US with a friend so I can start the next challenge of the bodice.

Stats: 51.5hrs, 18m/19.6yds hand stitching

 

Cheers

Kat xo

 

P.S. I think I have now finished the Historical Sew Monthly's February challenge of Tucks and Pleating, albeit a little late.

 

Diary of Desire Pt 2

Posted on by kathousekelli70

It certainly has been a long time between journal entries for this one, however, it is moving forward.

The sourcing of fabric was eventually done and had to fall back on gorgeous faux silk taffeta from Bangkok Thai Silk. I have found the silks and other fabrics in the past to be of excellent quality and good pricing.

With samples having been sent off to Texas Flower the choice was made to go with a blue teal and creamy gold. The royal blue was a little too dark and I just couldn't find that elusive powdery blue that I really wanted.

 

Cool! Fabric ordered and arrived.

 

Now the February challenge for Historical Sew Monthly was pleating and the furthest I got with this during the upheaval of false surgery starts and eventual surgery for Jack was writing 3 pages of notes, working out depth, widths of pleats, where to join, how much fabric etc. so technically I somewhat completed that task.

Skip forward almost a month – clearing other 'simpler' work – and we have arrived at actual commencement of construction.

Step 1. Check all measurements and re-read pink ramblings in book. (Pink pen? Really Jo?)

 

Step 2. Clean table and commence cutting of fabric. Cutting main body of skirt and pieces for gathering and pleating.

 

Step 3. Just because it used to be done back in the 1800's and because now I would know it wasn't more authentic if I didn't do it properly, hand stitching hem facing to bottom of skirt front and sides.

 

Step 4. Toss up whether to do gather sections and pleats separate and then join………hmmmmm, nup, think I will join them all first. Pin ready for sewing.

Step 5. Brings us to today, Tuesday 29th, stitch all sections together, stitch hem facings to back gather section and pleat section and all 19 front panels.

 

Step 6. Hand stitch hem facings down. Back sections done (2.5metres) now to do the front – approx 6metres!! Yes I did say hand stitch.

Now I've mentioned a back gather section and pleating. A quick glance at the photo and you'd be forgiven for saying, 'what the hell are you talking about?' But on closer inspection I realised that there is indeed an under section, just in blue, of a gathering layer and a pleated layer. Of course I can't leave it out, it's there so it has to be done.

 

Anyway this is where I'm at with the lovely Texas Flower's dinner or reception gown. Still trying to find more information or museum critique to know exactly what it would have been worn as.

Time so far – 13 hours

Needle and thread are calling me!

Kat xo

P.S. If you click on 'journal entries' above it will take you to Pt1 in case you missed it. 😉

 

‘The Green Behind The Gold’

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Tuesday we took a short trip up to Mt Tamborine to take a casual stroll down 'Gallery Walk'. We wandered in and out of small boutique shops and stopped in at the Gallery Cafe for Devonshire tea.

 

After our coffee, scones, jam and cream we kept on up the street to the 'Fig Tree Roundabout'. As the plaque states, the fig tree marks the site of the original home of one William Henry Crawford. He planted the tree across the road from his homestead to provide shade for the many walkers who passed by.

 

Across the road we ventured into a little shop called 'Bygone Days'. I could hardly contain myself as I looked through the various laces they had. Gorgeous, beautiful stunning laces at decent widths that would lend themselves to the most gorgeous 1800's gowns. They also had the most beautifully crafted reproduction velvet flowers for hats. Prices were excellent. I will be back!

As we meandered back down the road we stopped in at Le Chile Cafe for lunch and had beautiful bruschetta. I wanted Empanadas but they had run out.

 

Onwards to the 'Castle Glen' distillery, 'Fortitude Valley' brewing company for some liquor and beer tasting. The Lazy Knight was a winner – whiskey, white chocolate and ginger. We had a tasting paddle of 5 brews at the brew house.

 

Back in the car and we headed for the Mt Tamborine Rainforest Skywalk. A 40 minute walk through tracks of trees, figs, vines, and overhead walkways through rainforest canopy. There were various trees from palms, figs to the straightest, whitest, huge and beautiful gums I have seen in a long time. There were no orchids flowering at the moment either.

 

The cantilever platform was fantastic and we could see down to the floor and trickling little creek, listening to the sounds of cicadas and other forest noises……probably frogs.

 

That's it, back into the air conditioned car and headed back for an afternoon swim.

Kat xo

http://www.tamborinemtncc.org.au

https://www.facebook.com/Castle-Glen-wines-and-Cocktails-Montville-350574531728427/

http://fortitudebrewing.com.au

 

January – Procrastination

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Procrastination – noun – the action of delaying or postponing something (and I liked this bit of the definition) your first tip is to avoid procrastination.

Now we all know that is sometimes easier said than done! I can find many ways to my delaying doing something that I should be doing. Sometimes it’s just not ‘to get out of’ doing it, it’s because I just need to wrap my head around the project a little longer.

So, I decided I would attempt the Historical Sew Monthly 2016 challenges, thinking it could help me stay focused on getting projects done while not in my ‘natural’ environment so to speak. Wink, wink. 😉

I did find this one a little hard as I really don’t have any here with me. There is fabric still in Oklahoma that I could pass off as procrastinating on.

So for this portion I managed to complete 4 corsets that really needed to be done as some needed to be sent to the US.

 

I also had in the list a version of Dr Quinn, Medicine Woman dress for a Texas friend, Skedaddle. Now although I could say it is period, I would prefer to say silver screen inspired.

 

Needless to say it’s done and waiting on button pieces to arrive from the US so I can make the 45 covered buttons that will complete this dress. If you are looking for an awesome alternative to paying for a covered button service and still want metal shanks, I can highly recommend Button Biz

……..many days later, yes been busy with Jack trying to sort him out, cutting out, sewing and helping a friend get back on track with sewing. Procrastination at its finest.

Cheers

Kat xo

 

Half A Day Hat

Posted on by kathousekelli70

I took an online class back in January? Or earlier to make an 1880's Bustle Era Hat with Historical Sewing. Well never did get it done but kept my resources so I could get round to it one day.

Well the day has come, I needed a hat for my new Victorian gown for End Of Trail next week and ta dah! Have done it!

A half a day studiously working away, hand sewing every piece into place while watching re runs of Justified Season 3 and I now have my first hat!!

Thanks Jennifer (from Historical Sewing) your instructions are so good I was able to get it done!

For information about Historical Sewing classes go to their website, you will find heaps of interesting facts, techniques and online classes.

http://historicalsewing.com

For millinery bits for this project – Hatters Millinery, Melbourne Australia

http://www.hattersmillinerysupplies.com.au/on/millinery-supplies/

Cheers

Kat xo

 

 

What’s Under Your Dress?

Posted on by kathousekelli70

I can't help it but wear the appropriate undergarments when dressing in my Victorian gowns. You just can't do it any other way!

I first learnt from 'Clancy' (First lady I shot with, my friend, a Margarita Sista and my one and only Redneck Sista) about what goes into dressing like a lady, I have since experimented with different patterns etc for my gowns and am getting to find the ones I really like.

I've used a Laughing Moon pattern, a Buckaroo Bobbins pattern and now have tried the Truly Victorian undergarments pattern. I really like this one even though I made mine fairly plain compared to my Buckaroo Bobbins set, they feel really comfortable and I like the little capped sleeve look.

This is the Buckaroo Bobbins ones, yes I use them to shoot in too and have cream, navy and the white set for under gowns also has embroidery done on them as well. These ones have the gusset stitched up though for shooting!!

I decided that I wanted to learn more, you can never get too many tips right? So I found this amazing website Historical Sewing by Jennifer Rosbrugh.

I have learnt some nifty little tips for trim, the ever elusive how much do I need when making ruffles – very handy, and then other things it was like, yep, I do that already and could just crack on with what needed to be done.

I am looking forward to going through the making of hats though!

Any way a bit side tracked there, here are the current version using TV patterns, undergarments, imperial tournure and petticoat.

So now “Kat the 2nd” is ready for the next gown in the making!

Have other orders to fill before that, soon, very soon you will see them in the making ready for Helldorado Days!

Kat xo

For more information about above mentioned sites, patterns etc click on the links below.

http://historicalsewing.com/category/sewing-tips

https://www.trulyvictorian.com/xcart/shop_closed.html

http://www.buckaroobobbins.com

http://www.lafnmoon.com