Tag Archives: sewing

January – Procrastination

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Procrastination – noun – the action of delaying or postponing something (and I liked this bit of the definition) your first tip is to avoid procrastination.

Now we all know that is sometimes easier said than done! I can find many ways to my delaying doing something that I should be doing. Sometimes it’s just not ‘to get out of’ doing it, it’s because I just need to wrap my head around the project a little longer.

So, I decided I would attempt the Historical Sew Monthly 2016 challenges, thinking it could help me stay focused on getting projects done while not in my ‘natural’ environment so to speak. Wink, wink. 😉

I did find this one a little hard as I really don’t have any here with me. There is fabric still in Oklahoma that I could pass off as procrastinating on.

So for this portion I managed to complete 4 corsets that really needed to be done as some needed to be sent to the US.

 

I also had in the list a version of Dr Quinn, Medicine Woman dress for a Texas friend, Skedaddle. Now although I could say it is period, I would prefer to say silver screen inspired.

 

Needless to say it’s done and waiting on button pieces to arrive from the US so I can make the 45 covered buttons that will complete this dress. If you are looking for an awesome alternative to paying for a covered button service and still want metal shanks, I can highly recommend Button Biz

……..many days later, yes been busy with Jack trying to sort him out, cutting out, sewing and helping a friend get back on track with sewing. Procrastination at its finest.

Cheers

Kat xo

 

Guerilla? Or Just an Outlaw

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Jesse James was one of the most famous or infamous outlaws of the American west – robbing stage coaches, banks, trains, and leader of the James-Younger gang.

Why am I talking about Jesse James you might ask? And where does the guerilla bit come into it?

Well, once upon a time, in a land far far away….lol, no simple really. Jesse and his brother Frank James were confederate guerrilla's (also known as bushwackers). Road Runner, fellow Okie when we are there, requested a Jesse James guerrilla shirt.

With eyebrows slightly raised, of course I accepted the challenge and had him send me a picture. (As seen below)

 

Not hard really, finally found fabric that would drape nicely in the required grey, a simple black bias binding should work and found some studs that could replicate the trim.

It came time in the book to get onto this one and so I fiddled around with a pattern and created the very simple oversized guerilla shirt with slanted rounded pockets. Ta dah! Road Runner's guerilla shirt.

(Hmm they could actually have had more slant on the pockets now seeing it on the mannequin, noticeable when it's laying flat)

These shirts with their pockets shaped like that apparently made for ease of carrying extra ammo and accessibility to it. (so I've heard)

Personally I'm thinking that if you are galloping around on a horse at break neck speed you might lose it but then I thought about the drape of the fabric and figured it might well stay put due to the weight of the ammo.

The guerrilla shirts were often made by wives or sweethearts, some were elaborately embroidered, some plain, some with a placket and collar, made from various fabrics and patterns. According to civil war websites the shirts originated in Missouri but were similarly worn down through Texas.

Here are some more examples worn by the Duvall brothers and Bloody Bill Anderson.

 

All very different indeed!

And the whole guerrilla story with William C Quantrill and Bloody Bill Anderson is a tale for another day.

Cheers

Kat xo

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jesse_James#Quantrill.27s_Raiders

http://muse.jhu.edu/login?auth=0&type=summary&url=/journals/civil_war_history/v058/58.2.beilein.pdf

http://civilwartalk.com/threads/the-guerrilla-shirt.26529/

 

What’s Next?

Posted on by kathousekelli70

So we have been back from End Of Trail now for almost 2 weeks.

In that time it's been busy clearing washing, folding and ironing, for Jack, cleaning and reloading for the next trip, and of course a couple of club matches thrown in good measure and getting to the gym and swimming.

Then to the new fabric choices on the board, sorting out what needs to be cut, sewn, drafted, ordered and put into production.

It certainly has been a busy couple of weeks.

– finished making a bustle skirt and corset – sent!

– 2 vaquero suits underway, passementerie trim arrived and patterns half sorted in my head from photos.

– 2 reticule's made aka small hand bag or if you are Jack – a shell bag for brass……no comment.

– 8 corsets at varying stages of production on the table. Extra steel has now arrived for completion.

– 1 bar keep's apron.

Ready to cut out – 1 split skirt, 2 shirts, 1 pr bloomers, 1 pr pants.

 

Find fabric for – 1 civil war bodice, 3 corsets, 1 b-western outfit, 2 b-western shirts….and that's only a part of it.

Oh, and just a small portion of embroidery to be done.

But you know what, it's not a chore. Everything is different, I love it and can't wait for the next project.

This next trip though the sewing machine will be going with me to do some portion whilst enjoying some of the Midwest highlights of this great country.

This week coming we will be heading back up through to Colorado to Nunn and then spend a couple of days with Aspen Filly before heading through to Cheyenne, Wyoming and beyond.

Check out the 'Where Along The Trail' on the website to see the schedule.

See you on the trail!!

Kat xo

 

 

The Liberated Woman

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Now I say that very casually, as it was still late 1890's when 'Sporting Costumes' went through a change for women.

With women now being able to be 'wheel women' amongst other sports, came an introduction to ditching the petticoats and skirts.

This arose out of a 'safety' factor so you didn't end up A over T and being very unladylike during an untimely dismount from your bicycle.

I had looked at the cycling costume before but it wasn't until 'Tacky Jackie' asked if I would make her one that I got more interested in it again. I quickly bought the pattern and got fabrics and away we went.

In my research I had found pictures of ladies in skirts on their bicycles with large hats or boater style hats. Still looked a little impractical but I have seen a friend riding her original antique cycle in complete skirt ensemble! So it is possible.

 

Wasn't what we were looking for though. Wanting the more practical version of Turkish bloomers and basque, this would bring 'Tacky Jackie' and 'Kathouse Kelli' into practicality fashion of the late 1890's.

This picture found at the below link from the Metropolitan Museum, you will find a few other pic's at that site of this particular suit. It is original and I do love the detailing on it.

 

However, I feel this picture probably says it all! Probably more what I perhaps would have been like, had I been allowed out of skirts back then! Lol!

 

The pattern used for these is Laughing Moon Mercantile #110 Ladies 1890's Sporting Costumes – with Leggings. It has a great bibliography, descriptions and excerpts from fashion books from the era. Too much for here today.

So, Jackies choice was a small check print cotton. She didn't want a wool fabric so this is what we created,with a contrast belt and collar in black. She has cream lace dickie, black buttoned leggings and of course the ensemble wouldn't be complete without her new boater hat.

 

I had fabric that I had bought from the lovely 'Aspen Filly'. A small houndstooth wool, the perfect colour for keeping dust unnoticeable whilst out riding. I'm waiting on a neat buckle to go on this one.

 

Haa! Bloomers on with leggings! I'm now waiting on a button hook to come as this was a chore doing it without one!

 

I also had enough fabric for a Hunting Basque (included in the same pattern) so now I can interchange the two of them. Waiting on an antique hunting buckle for this one and have yet to make an appropriate hat. I want to put a dead bird on it but can't seem to find them yet. Will keep looking.

 

So there you go! Something different and unusual compared to my other gowns but now it's back to corsets and shooting outfits for now.

Will get photos of us wearing them later!

Have a good one! Kat

 

http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/159074?rpp=20&pg=1&pos=1&ft=bicycle+suit&img=1 1896-98 Cycling Suit. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

http://xroads.virginia.edu/~ug02/hendrick/women.html The Possibility of Mobility: Women

http://www.lafnmoon.com/product_p/p110.htm 1890's Sporting Costume, Laughing Moon Mercantile

 

 

Edwardian Hat Making

Posted on by kathousekelli70

I was asked by a couple of ladies from the club if I would like to Attend an Edwardian Hat Making class at the Oklahoma History Centre. Well yeah! A day out, didn't have a shoot on and to learn something new? Of course!

So today was the day. Met up with 'Sagebrush Sadie' and 'I B Real Slow' at the History Centre and together with 5 other ladies we sat and listened to Barbara regale us with stories of her various persona's she plays whilst giving education classes, history enactments etc. A lovely lady.

 

This class was well worth it just for her stories, however did learn new tips for making Edwardian hats. Time period you might ask? 1901 to 1910.

You know, the big hats with feathers, flowers and as much as you can fit on it just about.

 

Well not being one to be totally unprepared I did some research into gowns and period clothing from this time as I usually sit well in the 1870'-1880's. I didn't know whether there would be choices I would have to make so I searched for ideas so I could make a hat and later make the clothing to match.

I was getting a little ahead of myself because all supplies were of the same colouring of which I am grateful for the tuition anyway. NOW however (and I know I could have worked it out for myself should I have wanted to engage in this time period) I am wanting to indulge one day in an Edwardian outfit and of course up to 1910 still fits with SASS ladies.

Now I have visions of loveliness in cream lace and fabrics of muted colours with trims and a gorgeous voluminous hat of epic proportions!!

So thank you to Sarah of the Oklahoma History centre, in charge of class schedules and the lovely Barbara and her other volunteer assistants for a great day.

Oh! Did I tell you we got to make a hat pin as well? And 'Velvet Glove', Barbara also knows the secret of 'flag wire'! I have to make more.

 

Thank you lovely ladies for inviting me to go with you today, thoroughly enjoyed it.

Cheers

Kat xo

P.S. Lunch was provided with class and had the backdrop of the Oklahoma State Capitol with the Winnie Mae of course!

 

Half A Day Hat

Posted on by kathousekelli70

I took an online class back in January? Or earlier to make an 1880's Bustle Era Hat with Historical Sewing. Well never did get it done but kept my resources so I could get round to it one day.

Well the day has come, I needed a hat for my new Victorian gown for End Of Trail next week and ta dah! Have done it!

A half a day studiously working away, hand sewing every piece into place while watching re runs of Justified Season 3 and I now have my first hat!!

Thanks Jennifer (from Historical Sewing) your instructions are so good I was able to get it done!

For information about Historical Sewing classes go to their website, you will find heaps of interesting facts, techniques and online classes.

http://historicalsewing.com

For millinery bits for this project – Hatters Millinery, Melbourne Australia

http://www.hattersmillinerysupplies.com.au/on/millinery-supplies/

Cheers

Kat xo

 

 

Sewing F……..P…’s

Posted on by kathousekelli70

Faux Pas! Faux Pas people, what were you thinking? I know, most of you know me very well and that was NOT what I was thinking at all but just trying to be polite. Stuff it I'm really NOT a lady either! Haa haa haa. Well maybe sometimes.

So yesterday I set out making Jack two new shirts, fabric he picked out and we bought in LA garment district last year. (I know bit slow but finally getting round to it) well the first mistake was putting the placket on the wrong side for a mans shirt.

Yes there is a difference in case you didn't know. Men's buttons left over right, women's right over left. Or as our friend 'Aspen Filly' described it “women are always right and men are just left overs”. Too funny. Fixed that one and carried on.

Anyway in the past I have cut out Jacks shirts and had to cut an inch off in the side seams so I did the usual. Now my Pa always taught me with woodwork to measure twice cut once, so why, when Jack's been grazing in the best paddock for the past couple of months did I not remeasure?

Stupid girl, be more smart. So here I sit after tossing them aside and determined to change the over locking/serger thread back to white will grit my teeth and unpick yet again and fix this!

Sighhhh and I only had collar and button holes to go.

Well – suck it up Princess and get on with it!

Thanks for listening, or laughing, or shaking your head. Have a great day!

Kat xo