Communism Tour

Thursday 17th August, whilst in Prague, Jack having an interest in history of past wars and effects chose to do a Communism Tour.

Not having known a great deal about it (history was not one of my subjects at school despite my obvious and very keen interest in it now) I thought this could be an interesting diverse look at Prague.

Now Katarina, our little tour guide, is only 30years old and has lived through part of this as a very small child. Her parents and grandparents however, lived through those turbulent times.

She was a wealth of knowledge. At this point it is now your turn for a history lesson in what I have recounted from her imparted information as we walked for, yet again, miles of Prague. (a little tram travel as well)

As previously mentioned in other blogs, originally Czechoslovakia was part of the Austrian Hungarian empire until during WWII it came under the Munich agreement.

Germany occupied Cžech until the end of the war when Russian troops moved and took it over. Czechoslovakia, disenchanted with western countries at the time, cooperated with the Russians.

They later came to find that power was being misused and the following elections communist parties were not being considered.

Along came the ‘Bloody 50’s’ and the ensuing protests came with imprisonment. One notable woman was accuse of treason and subsequently executed. She is said to be the only woman in the country to be executed for political reasons.

Ten others were executed and 48 imprisoned just for being associated with her. Another 248 ‘inconvenient’ people were executed and 2500 imprisoned around the 50’s. (Think a good majority of us can take a moment and be very thankful for the lives we have lived and are living)

I’ll try now to shorten some of the other notes I took down from this tour but I think you will find it interesting nonetheless.

  • In 1953 Stalin died with another (I had Kleenex and ?mark, I’m sure autocorrect took over here) people though it suspicious and wondered if they were poisoned.
  • After his death, for some reason they thought it a good idea to mummify his body! It wasn’t done well however and soon started to decay.
  • There used to be a large statue of Stalin situated on the opposite side of the river (to the main part of Prague). It was blown up in 1962 and not one scrap of it is left, apparently everyone wanted a piece of him!
  • During the 60’s liberation, hippies etc, CZ experienced a short period.
  • 1968 borders were opened, mostly to Yugoslavia. If you were a good worker you may have been allowed to go on vacation with your family to Greece for a week or two.
  • There was no more censorship of artists. Katarina’s grandmother was arrested for dancing to the Beatles and Rock’n’Roll music!

During our visit to Prague there were display boards of photos, a tank and a nightly cinematic display at the front end of Wenceslas Square. The anniversary of Russian tanks being sent in to ‘liberate’ the country on 21st August, 1968.

This caused massive protesting and 100 people died including a young Jan Polak who set himself on fire in protest of the occupation. He died 3 days later. His death mask cast in bronze is installed in his memory on the side of a building.

It is sad to think that someone would think protesting in this fashion would do them good by harming themselves in such a dramatic fashion. But like Polak, 13 others attempted this method of protest.

The 80’s brought with it another revolution around the time of the wall coming down in Berlin in 1989. At the start of the revolution in ’88, Katarina’s parents brought her to Wenceslas Square where hoards of people protested shaking their keys. (I got nothing….I have no explanation written for the significance of this)

Did you know?

17th January, 1939 – students who protested were sent to concentration camps. To this day that anniversary has been known as the Day of International Students.

A memorial for this is prominently placed in the city where the most conflict between students and police took place.

The year 1990 saw the beginning of the Velvet Revolution. Velvet as smooth as the fabric is, to indicate a smooth transition to peace.

The Velvet Revolution came to conclusion in 1993 when the country split and became Cžech Republic and Slovakia.

In our travels Katarina provided other, somewhat trivial information as we passed different places. Like;

  • The Rock Cafe where in 1994 Bill Clinton was given a saxophone to play during his visit.
  • The beautiful garden that once belonged to Franciscan monks who along with nuns, were imprisoned or disappeared during the communist regime.
  • Cžech Republic is one of the most agnostic countries in the world because it was not worth your while to speak of your religion for fear of persecution.
  • The last point reminds us that despite being churches in every town here they remain as a symbol and most are concert halls etc or are only used for Christmas services and the like.

So next stop on this tour is a visit to the bunker. Yes you read it right, a bunker.

The metro system was designed as an underground bunker but could really only hold half of the city’s people.

We head to one of the bunkers entrances through a bizarrely graffitied, gated, outdoor bar in semi suburbia??!!

As Katarina unlocks the door she explains the bunker. Built in 1952-1955 it features a 4000kg/4t door, stairs take you to a 60m depth and could accommodate 5000 people. That would give each person around half a square meter of space.

Now it is supposedly ready as a shelter for 2000 people. Probably a two week stay is all that’s possible. It you wouldn’t be any better off other than living a few days longer as there would be no supplies etc up top for replenishment anyway. She said she would, in what I would call true Czech tradition, head to the nearest pub and live out your last days drinking beer!

The last sections of tunnel we went into had some displays of older gas masks, hospital supplies and their practice propaganda for such an event.

There are 5 entrances in total, decontamination rooms and a 3stage filtration system for clean air. (Wish I could insert my surprised, wide eyed emoji in here)

On a final note before we headed back up above ground to appreciate the fresh air and sunshine Katarina told us that The Rolling Stones were the first band to play in Cžech Republic after the Revolution in 1990. They gifted money for electricity to be installed in the Prague Castle for the presidential offices.

Bet you didn’t know that bit of trivia!?

Kat xo

Pivo in Prague

Now where would be in the country of most consumers of beer (Pivo) and not take a guided tour to a few of the city’s finest.

We met our guide Martin from Urban Adventures at the Wenceslas statue at the top of Wenceslas Square. It was to be a small group of beer connoisseur’s but instead of 5 with two no shows we were down to 3 of us (Gina – a teacher in Wemberley but from Brisbane would you believe!, Jack and myself) and the guide.

Once upon a time in a Bavarian Monastery…..or something like that 🙂 ……during the 9th century, Monks began brewing the famous beverage.

Monks were relatively wealthy and so had the money to buy the best ingredients.

Back in the day when animals were roaming town streets and water was becoming contaminated, the process of brewing beer made it safer to drink beer than water.

Yes you heard me right! Beer! Even the kids were drinking it. Obviously the alcohol content was a lot less than most beers brewed today and they didn’t consume it in the same quantities as we do now.

We took the tram to the first stop which was another new experience for us.

Vino Harady is a vineyard district right in the center of Prague that was used by the monasteries and was turned into a park. Today some of the grapevines are being regrown in the park.

Across from the park in the quieter end of town is our first stop on the tour – Pivnice Usadu.

Now a quick note, Lager is what they call bottom fermented and wheat beer is top fermented with its fruitier flavours and cloudy appearance.

A process that depends purely on the balance of hops to malt ratio balancing out sweetness depending on the brew you require.

So Jack went for Velen which is a wheat beer. I had Sadek, an unfiltered lager. Accompanying this was tapas that Martin ordered (at each stop) for us of Czech tradition. This round was marinated pork belly strips (which wasn’t the fatty version we have seen previous) with horse radish and mustard.

Learning point – water, barley, hops, yeast are the essential and pure ingredients. German tradition and law make this so. There are no other ingredients or flavourings to be added to the mix. Cžech brewers, whilst there is no law, follow this German tradition.

Of course ideal weather and soil conditions contribute to production of the perfect hops. As mentioned it acts to balance the sweetness and also serves as a natural preservative.

As you do, as we have seen Budweiser Budvar signs everywhere, Jack asked the difference between Budweiser USA and Budweiser here. You would have thought he had cussed but Martin explained as best he could.

Budweiser as the Budjovíce bohemian version has been around since the 17th Century. Budweiser Anheuser Busch is German and apparently there are ongoing issues between the two regarding the use of name etc. The original Budvar version is sold in USA under a different label. (Sounds like some similar issues to the McDonalds film I just watched)

Onto the tram again to our next stop and this pub, I notice, uses a different numbering system. Like an 11, 13, or say a 15 beside the name of the beer. Martin explains this is done to grade the beer. The numbers determine the level of malt in the beer and later used in determination of the alcohol by volume percentage is done.

This pub also has unique brews made for them only, these brewers are called ‘gypsy breweries’. Once the beer is all gone they might get a different brewer in.

Here we are drinking one called ‘Bad Flash Red Shorts’ an IPA. Paired with a Bavarian style sausage that has been cooked and pickled in vinegar. (Hence the saying – drowning in vinegar or in Aus we would say slightly pickled)

This type of sausage was first produced for an industrial exhibition in the late 1800’s. It has been prepared to serve with beer and has been in pubs since then.

This pub has been here for 160 years. At one stage someone had booked the place for a party and asked if they could provide their own kegs. The publican obliged and when the party finished the left over kegs were served up to locals the next day. They liked it! Hence the changing of breweries regularly now.

It’s now 8.20pm and our third stop, Cafe Kolibka. The Únitece unfiltered lager (can’t remember if we all drank the same but the only one in my notes) with a marinated cheese.

The cheese, like Camembert or Brie, has been marinated in oil, paprika, bay leaf and onion. Extremely good with a thin piece of bread and beer.

The last stop on our tour took us back in near our hotel at a place called Pivovar U Dobrenskych where we have all chosen different beers.

Gina chose a light and refreshing lemongrass style. Jack went for a medium flavored almost IPA called Tribulas and I chose their stout but must have definitely given up typing the name because I’ve got nothing! Lol! No, found a photo, all good!

I’m sure it was around 10.30pm or so when we finished this tour. A great evening spent talking over good beer.

Thanks Martin and Urban Adventures, outstanding!

Kat xo

Wednesday, August 16th

More Prague, CZ

There is more than meets the eye in Prague and amongst the hidden, crowded and busy streets we find more history, museums and treasures.

Jewish Quarter

Having been around since 906, we walked past the Pinkas Synagogue. One of 7 synagogues in the area.

The area also has the oldest Jewish synagogue in Europe from 1270. (I hope all my figures are right, it was hard to keep up with the typing whilst the tour guide was talking)

It is used every year for Jewish holiday celebrations. Behind it, the cemetery has some of the oldest tombstones. People were buried in 12 layers with the last interned in 1787.

The City

Just some interesting bits and pieces I noted down during the tours as we flew around in the bus, walked for miles or relaxed on the boat.

  • There are 46 McDonalds and 38 KFC restaurants in Prague.
  • Bata shoes once owned and produced in Cžech, currently in Canada, are in the process of having it return to Cžech Republic. The store in Prague is 5 floors of shoes!!
  • Paris Street is their most expensive strip of high end shops.
  • A paradox of history – once where a huge statue of Stalin stood was later a statue of Michael Jackson when he held a concert there.
  • Approx 1million people are recorded as living in Prague. A big issue come tourist season where it swells beyond that.
  • Renovation works to buildings and statues are carried out during summer. Making it busier.
  • 1.1% unemployment, best in Europe.
  • Sports stadium was built in 1926 taking just 6 months to build. It's massive, looks run down and covered in graffiti but apparently still very much used.
  • The Dept of Foreign Affairs building which has more windows than days of the year (tour guides words, haa haa) used to be a mental asylum!
  • During summer, some 10,000 people take one of the boat trips. They run about every 10mins.

There is more with the replica Eiffel tower up on Perrin Park hill,

the Hunger Wall memorial, Wenscelas Square,

the Powder Tower

and of course the gorgeous and popular Astronomical Clock

in the Old Town Square where hundreds gather in and around cafe's to watch it go through its motions on the hour. (Video is on FB)

Kat xo

Prague, CZ

What a beautiful city! The historic Charles Bridge, St Vitus Cathedral and the Prague Castle create a beautiful backdrop to this bustling city.

With all its crazy little mazes of cobblestone streets and alleys, Prague has a lot to offer tourists from abroad.

Of course the summer season is particularly busy and many streets are just a sea of people! Great for people watching whilst drinking pivo! (Beer)

We started our few days with a full day guided tour of Prague. We caught a bus for part of it, walked miles for the most of it and finished with a boat cruise.

Old Prague and the castle grounds have been around since 1230 where it was rich with merchants houses from Romanesque times.

Prague clearly had a lot to offer for the likes of Mozart and other musicians and artists to come here.

Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge tower is one of the oldest pieces of gothic architecture. The bridge is the link between Old Town and Lesser Quarter.

Thirty statues serve as a gallery across the bridge. The originals are now being replaced with replicas and over the next few years will be exhibited inside the castle walls.

The bridge was named after Charles IV but he never saw it to completion having died 3 years earlier. The earlier Bridge had been destroyed during a flood in 1342. At 5.31am construction of the Charles Bridge took place on the 9th July 1357. It was done on completely odd numbers.(numerology significance) 971357531 as displayed above the gate.

Prague Castle

The castle, once home to the royal family of Schwarzenberg and other royal families, now serves as presidential suites for the Cžech President.

The flag is flying during our visit which means of course, the President is in the country.

This popular tourist destination features many castle rooms, small shops of handcrafts, museum, monuments, cafes and of course St Vitus Cathedral. Some areas are closed or heavily guarded due to the Presidential office.

We arrived at the castle in time for the changing of the guard at one of the 3? Main entrances. Guards perform their changing ceremony every 30minutes.

As you enter into the square there is a beautiful Baroque fountain and water well from the 17th century.

St Vitus Cathedral

This formidable piece of architecture was started in the 14th century with one section built in 1812-1929. Essentially 1004 years to build!

The beautiful big round window in one end of the cathedral was constructed in 1928 with 26,000 pieces of glass. I kid you not!

The stunning glass windows and other ornate features are truly stunning.

On the outside wall as you exit the cathedral is a massive mosaic made in 1371 of hundreds of thousands of Venetian glass and sandstone cubes.

It was the original entrance to the cathedral with the mosaic depicting heaven on the left and hell on the right.

What a fabulous visit into history, but wait, there's more!

Kat xo

Prague

Arrived in Prague today have had a nice lunch, checked into Old Prague Hotel and then made our way to parking.

Again streets are narrow and not much room for movement. Cobblestones and heaps of tourists.

The buildings are stunning, truly ornate works of art.

Walked across 'most legii' from the National Theatre to the hunger wall. Then back again and around looking for a place for dinner.

We ended up at Pivovar Národní Brewery. A great beer garden out back, so we found a spot to sit and had great steaks and salad.

Then a 15 minute meander back to the hotel. Checked out the strange moving sculpture and back to the 'couldn't swing a cat in it if you tried' room.

Thankfully this is only one night before we go in to a more suitable one tomorrow.

Tomorrow is rivercruise tour!

Na zdraví!

Kat xo

Kutná Hora

We arrived in Kutná Hora yesterday afternoon.

After a brief walk around we realized this was a larger town than expected and found familiar sounds of American accents. It now looked promising to find places and information centers where people would know some English besides their native Čeština.

A quick walk down more cobblestone streets to the main square we found the Hotel Medínek at the historical Centre of the old town.

We were also able to get a parking spot right outside the front doors!!??!!

Our room overlooked the square which was great for the spontaneous piano players as the sound carried and we could hear it clearly. Anything from chopsticks, classical to popular songs were being played by some very talented people.

There were many outdoor cafes as well which was great and many of the other historical sites are within walking distance.

Later that night however with the rowdy teens in the square from 11pm til about 3am was not so fun or sleep inducing.

Kutná Hora is about 70km's/40miles from Prague. Historically, it was the silver mining Centre and the location of the royal mint. (Today being Monday it is closed so we have missed out)

According to the brochure, It was one of the most influential cities of Bohemia being the second wealthiest city in the country after Prague. In respect to the architecture, Kutná Hora was a favored city to many rulers who came to royal residence known as the Vlašsky Dvur. The old town Centre has been preserved as UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After dinner we walked the streets and went along past the Corpus Christi Chapel and around the St Barbara Church which was just spectacular with all its ornate sandstone fretwork, arches, spires and gargoyles.

There are little hidden restaurants and shops everywhere.

This morning, since we found out the Silver Mine was closed, we went to Sedlec Ossuary and the Sedlec Cathedral of the Assumption of our Lady and St John the Baptist.

Brochure states 'These are parts of the former oldest Cistercian Monastery in Bohemia founded in 1142 – the gate to the history of the royal city of Kutná Hora.

Thousands of people found their last place of rest here at the times of plague epidemics and religious Hussite wars in the Middle Ages. In 15th century the major part of the cemetery was abolished and relics from the graves (remains of 40,000 people) were brought to the church into its underground chapel.

In 1511 a half-blind monk piled them into pyramids. The Seslec Monastery was abolished by Joseph II. The present form of the bone decoration is a result of Baroque modifications carries out in early 18th century by J B Sabrina Aichel, completed by a wood carver František Rint in 1870.'

This is Memento Mori or remember the death associated with the Christian hope of resurrection, not a celebration of death but symbolizing the equality of people in front of the throne of god.

Hats removed, courtesy silence, photography allowed (no flash), heaps of tourists. A very interesting visit.

Kat xo

SASS European Championship Update

Okay seeing as I've been enjoying the time here and not blogging. I'll just give you a quick update between blogs.

So we did warm up the day before and started main match of the European Championships yesterday (Thursday). We did 6 stages, storm was supposed to come and didn't.

5 more were schedule for today…..note I said scheduled! It's been raining since 6am – two delays – but continued thunderstorms and inches of rain has put paid to any shooting for the day.

Yesterday's stages have been scrapped (lucky for me) and tomorrow will see a brand new set up of two posse's working together, 7 stages that everyone will shoot to produce an overall result.

With thunder, lightning and 20cm/10" deep of rain on the ranges (even though they were trying to pump it off) nothing is happening, was mission impossible for today.

So to everyone shooting the European Championships!

Good luck tomorrow!!!

Kat xo

Cžeski Krumlov

Česky Krumlov – a beautiful old Czech city filled with ornate buildings, fresco', and of course a 14th century castle.

We were lucky enough to have exceptional weather when we arrived there Saturday afternoon.

Once checked in to our 2nd floor room which ended up being 3 flights of stone stairs we were free to wander the cobblestone streets.

My eyes just kept moving from one building to the next trying to take in all the architecture, painting and signs.

The centre of the town is almost on an island, the river flows around in a horseshoe shape and today there are plenty of people rafting down it.

We found an outdoor seat at a restaurant, enjoyed a few beers before dinner and watched as they went past.

We took a stroll through the castle grounds later and got a sensational sunset backdrop to the castle tower.

A late coffee and ice cream in the thoroughfare before we turned in for the night, it was still hot but a thunderstorm in the early hours of the morning fixed that mostly.

Sunday morning and it's grey skies and then rain on and off. That was okay though as we were going inside the castle today.

There is no photography allowed to be taken inside the main castle buildings 😦 the Rosenberg family held title over the castle in 1302.
Later it went back to the Eggenberg family and then to The House of Schwarzenberg from 1719 to 1945.

Most of the town and castle dates in 14th to 17th centuries. First stop on the tour was the chapel with its baroque organ, this is an extremely ornate room. Like other areas and other countries, painted techniques were used to make timber fabrications look like marble or exotic wood.
There are a lot of carvings and beautiful paintings. Back then, during the renaissance period, the artificial marble was more expensive than actual marble.
Even the ceilings are painted with decorative surrounds and faux finials.

The property was originally divided between the 5 sons. One was an illegitimate son and only the 4 were given titles and therefore ties in with the four roses in the painting of the forming of these entities, the fifth however was not included in one of these works despite being displayed as a colour later in other works, coat of arms etc.

Most of the rooms were covered in wall carpets that are about 2" thick and woven in beautiful scenes. They were hung against the stone walls and to keep the rooms warm.

The dining room was used for entertaining and often had musicians play there for them as well.

The next room is virtually covered in frescos from floor to ceiling. They are stories from the Bible. It was used as a games room.

I could go on and on about the next few rooms but would probably bore most without a vivid imagination! I will however add the photos that are displayed on the tour price board.

In any case I could visit this city every time if I had a choice to come here I would keep coming back because there is so much to see and take in.

Na zdravi!
Kat xo

Berchtesgaden – Cžeskí Krumlov

Before leaving Berchtesgaden this morning, we headed up into the old town area.

Finding first the Information Centre and a short walking tour map. The Old Berchtesgaden cemetery is next door, having been there since 1685.

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Next is the Franciscan church (which I only got a partial photo of), a gothic church built in 1480, it was first a convent and then from 1695 til present day as a Franciscan monastery.

Many of the guest houses and buildings through here have been built anywhere from the mid 1700's to late 1800's.

Moving through to the Schlossplatz and the Royal Castle with Museum that we couldn't wait for it to open, as we had to keep moving. The brochure says 'houses a collection unparalleled in southern Bavaria.'

Across from the palace is the 'Arcades' featuring fresco's from Josef Hengge 1929 and 1952 as a reminder of the fallen soldiers of both world wars.

Back up through the main Marktplatz, it's Saturday morning and people are setting up stalls for the day. The streets are all cobblestone through here with beautiful buildings, colour and fresco's aplenty.

Onto Tittmoning, seit 1134 (I guess without looking, that means established?) through an archway into a quaint little cobblestone town square, surrounded with buildings in the square and one way out the other end.

Now it's move on to Cžeská Republika and the town of Cžesky Krumlov. Changes of scenery now (sort of) as we crossed the border.

Na Zdraví!

Kat xo